I arrived in Luxembourg (both the country and the capital city) and checked into my room.  The city was calm, quiet and clean.  There was a poised energy in the air.  Posh and sophisticated, one could walk the streets and stumble upon royal palaces and gardens.  All public transportation was free within the country too.  One could hop on and off the efficient train system free of charge.  I boarded one of the trains and wandered into town to find a tourism office.  The woman who was working was kind and attentive.  I explained the project and asked her if she had any suggestions for the portrait.  She suggested the Hämmelsmarsch. 

The Hämmelsmarsch, or sheep march, is a Luxembourgish tradition where local music groups dress in blue shirts with a red necktie.  They would play the Hämmelsmarsch song while parading down the street accompanied by, you guessed it, sheep.  The precession was meant to lead the townsfolk to the local fair.  Today, the tradition continues in many of the towns around the country.  In the capital, there is even a bronze statue commemorating the tradition.  The woman at the tourism office instructed me where to find the schedule of events online.  She mentioned that every weekend would have a celebration or two, it was simply a matter of finding the right village.  I thank her for the invaluable information and began my research.

I found a festival happening in the nearby town of Remich, close to the German border.  Their weekend schedule gave a detailed timeline of what cross streets and landmarks they would arrive at during certain times of the day.  I realized that if I left immediately, I would make it in time to catch them at their final stop.  Camera and painting materials in tow, I boarded the bus to Remich.  The scenery was lush and the countryside was invigorating.  The entirety of Luxembourg seemed perfectly manicured.  The bus approached Remich along a riverside road.  Just on the other side of the river was Germany.  An expansive promenade lined with trees followed the riverbank.  The occasional boat would sail by, while many more were docked along the bank.

We arrived at the main station in town and everyone disembarked.  I remained on the bus for a few more stops.  The last stop on the line would put me right where the musicians were slated to finish their march.  I got off the bus into a remote hillside suburb.  I headed towards the cross street mentioned on their website, not sure if I was in the right area.  Suddenly, after rounding a corner, I heard the faint sounds of a marching band in the distance.  As I grew closer, I saw the band all dressed in blue.  They were performing to a small crowd.

I joined the crowd and watched them play.  The audience was cheering and dancing to the familiar tune.  When they finished, I introduced myself to a woman who spoke english.  I explained the project and she suggested that I photograph Robert, an older gentleman who had been dressed the most traditionally of the group.  She called him over and I learned that Robert was her father.  He didn’t speak English, so she translated and told him about the project.  He agreed to it and they suggested I return the following morning.  They would be marching in the center of town and the precession would culminate at the fair.  Realizing the center of the village would make for a better background than the suburbs, I agreed.  They told me where to meet them the next day and I made my way back to the bus stop to return to the capital.

The next morning, I took the familiar journey back to Remich.  Arriving early, I scouted possible locations around the town’s riverside hub.  I found a nice shaded spot with a few buildings in the back to highlight the country’s unique architecture.  On schedule, they arrived at the location where we were meeting.  I greeted them.  Robert’s daughter told me that his leg had been sore.  He was going to sit and rest for a few minutes as they continued to march.

After Robert had rested for a while, he joined me.  I had assumed someone would be there with us for the photoshoot to help translate, as I certainly spoke no Luxembourgish.  The band was out of sight and I could no longer hear them in the distance.  As I went to position Robert in the spot I’d found, a large white van pulled up and parked directly in the background.  Fantastic. I had no backup plan and an obtrusive object now plagued the scene.  All I could think about was that I needed to get this poor man off his feet.  Of course, I couldn’t communicate with him what was happening.  I decided to adjust him slightly and take the portrait in the same location but at a different angle.  The background wasn’t as thoughtful as I’d originally intended but I needed to act quickly.  He looked at the camera and flashed a friendly smile.  I took a few quick shots and motioned to him that we were done and he could go sit.  The portrait felt rushed and chaotic, but at the same time genuine and raw.

When the rest of the band returned they entered the fair.  There was a stage with speakers, crafts, artisan foods, rides, and a large booth serving wine.  I hadn’t known at the time, but Remich is one of Luxembourg's most acclaimed wine regions.  I spoke with a couple of band members who were quite curious about the project.  They told me a bit more about their traditions and Luxembourg as a whole.  They helped me translate to Robert and told him that he is the only person in Luxembourg to be included in the project.  The joy and flattery on his face needed no translation.  They helped facilitate the painting and communicated with Robert so that he could create his line.  I stayed and spoke with them and had another glass of wine.  I thanked them all for their last minute support and took the bus back to the capital.  The following day I would travel to my final European destination, Switzerland.