Francelina | Sage of Portugal

I spent a week in Paris, waiting for the reality to sink in that I had finally made it back across the pond.  I met up with old friends and made some new ones.  We explored the city, visited galleries and museums, sat in cafes and drank copious amounts of wine.  There is something so invigorating about the European way of life.  Cultural heritage and traditions are ever-present.  The underlying notion that you must work yourself to death to be successful isn’t part of their lifestyle. They have access to free healthcare and education, allowing students to take a gap year off and see the world.  Many countries have the month of August off completely for holidays.  A European friend of mine sent me a meme one day and it said the following:

“European out of office auto reply: ‘I’m sorry I am away from the office right now.  I’m currently in Sardinia on holiday.  Please write back in September.’

American out of office auto reply: ‘I’m sorry I am away from the office right now.  I left to undergo open heart surgery.  I should only be gone for a couple of hours. My cell is on if you need me.’”

It’s laughable, but the underlying message was obvious throughout the entire summer.

After a remarkable week in Paris (which I’ll write more about after I complete the French portrait) I flew to Lisbon.  This would be one of the only flights I’d take in Europe.  It was necessary due to Portugal’s position in relation to the rest of the continent.  Lisbon is the capital city of Portugal and is located on the country’s Atlantic coast.  One of its most charming features is the cable car system.  Narrow streets, year round warm weather, and its close proximity to beaches make the city desirable to tourists and expats alike.  I spent my days exploring the capital city, feasting on bacalao (codfish) and pastéis de nata, a custard tart known around the world as one of the country’s most prized delicacies.  After a few days in Lisbon I traveled two hours north to the coastal town of Nazaré.

Nazaré

Nazaré was an old fishing town that transformed into a booming tourist destination.  It boasts one of the largest waves in the world and because of it, the town has attracted surfers and beachgoers.  Nazaré retains the charm of a small village while capturing the energy of a bustling seaside retreat.  I had read about the women of Nazaré who still wore traditional clothing.  Their outfits consist of skirts, petticoats, handmade aprons, scarves and jewelry.  The tradition dates back many years.  The wives of fishermen would stand on the cold, nighttime shores waiting for their husbands to return.  They’d dress in several layers of petticoats to stay warm.  

There are two levels to the town of Nazaré.  One was sea level, spreading out along the crescent shore.  The other was perched high atop a hill.  My accommodation was up on the hill where I found the most breathtaking views of the coastline down below.  During my first morning there, I ventured out to find a woman to photograph.  There were a few traditionally dressed women working as vendors who were selling dates, nuts, candies, and trinkets.  The language barrier escalated to a new level of difficulty in Portugal.  While I got by in Central America with my Spanish, I knew absolutely no Portuguese.  In general, many Portuguese people spoke English, but not the older women I needed to talk to.  I required help.  I found information about the Museu Dr. Jaoquim Manso, a museum exhibiting the history and culture of the region including traditional costumes.  Perfect. 

The museum was located on the upper tier of town close to where I was staying.  I walked over to find a ‘Temporarily Closed Due to Covid’' sign hanging on the door.  Great.  Then I remembered that there was a tourism office down by the beach I had walked past the night before.  If nothing else, I could at least count on them to speak English.  I took a leisurely coastal walk down to the office.  I was greeted by a friendly woman.  I explained the project and asked if she had any suggestions as to whom I might be able to contact for help.  She gave me the name of a woman and directed me to the Nazaré Cultural Center.  I thanked her and walked to The Center.  The woman was also friendly and very interested in the project.  She explained that many of the women I was looking for worked in the fishing industry.  Across from The Center was a market where they would sell their fish.  Conveniently, in a room behind the center was where the women would prepare and gut the fish.  She asked me if I wanted to go back and meet one of the women. I said yes.  We walked back and I met Francelina for the first time.  She was standing at a wash basin cleaning sardines.  The woman from the center introduced us and translated.  She explained the project to Francelina and asked her if she was interested in being in it.  She said yes but preferred to schedule the photograph for the following day so that she could prepare a more complete outfit.  I agreed so that we could meet in the morning and avoid the harshness of the afternoon light.  I met Francelina at The Center the following morning at 7am.  The Center didn’t open until 9am.  We were on our own and I was completely at the mercy of Google Translate.  I prepared a message beforehand and read it to her.  I asked her if she understood Spanish and she said she understood a bit.  We completed the portrait rather easily.  She posed by her sardines in the market across the street.  We ended up being able to talk a bit more than I thought.  It was a pleasant encounter.  I then prepared the paint and paper.  She painted a line mimicking the waves of the ocean.  With a smile, we parted ways.  

The following day I left Nazaré and headed towards Spain.  On the way I stopped overnight in Lagos, another seaside town but on Portugal’s Southern Coast.  I stopped to visit one of Portugal's most beautiful beaches, Praia do Camilo.  Wooden steps descended onto the small picturesque cove.  Colored rock and a hand dug tunnel lined the shore.  I went for a long swim.  The water flowed over me as I floated on the glistening surface.  Another country was completed.  I was really doing this.